While the expression “lipstick on a pig” could be offensive to some, it is also what could be a spot on description. After all, it is hard to be sure how much quality a builder put into the things that a homeowner does not see. The doors and windows may look nice and be labeled as “Low E” but were they set with enough room to properly insulate around them? Was the house framed with quality, high grade lumber or was back-lot, sawmill rejects used? The furnace might be 90%+ efficient, but do any of the supply or return ducts run though unheated space? The house might be “Energy Star Certified” but what kind of insulation was used in the walls?

The Building code is not perfect and neither is the current Energy Code. It is still possible to cut corners when it comes to satisfying the Energy Code and some builders do. It’s easy to notice a poor paint job, cheap wood work and entry level appliances, but it is hard to identify a poor insulation job.  When buying a used home one could ask to see the previous year’s heating / cooling bills, but when you purchase a new home you have to wait to see how your home heats / cools to find out if you purchased quality.  Special labels and certifications are designed to give the home owner sound of mind and often they represent quality, but like the Building & Energy Code, they are not perfect and contain loopholes.

Most builders pay attention to the details of things potential clients see. To truly get a handle on a builder’s care / quality level, ask them about things that are not so easily observed, if they take the time and pay attention to the details that are not seen then you can get a handle of the overall product that they will deliver to you, the home owner.

Remember that satisfying the Energy Code does not guarantee a quality insulation job. Here are some things that indicated a quality insulation job:

-          Was the house properly air sealed?

• Bottom Plates, Headers, Exterior Penetrations, Excessive Stud Gaps: caulked or foamed

-          Were the sidewalls insulated with a sprayed product?

-          Were the baffles air sealed? Or for that matter, does the home have adequate attic ventilation?

-          How is the basement insulated?

-          Does the attic have a minimum of R-38 sprayed cellulose?

-          Does all cavity insulation contain a rigid barrier behind it?

For the record, you want a “yes” or “affirmative” to all of the questions.  A yes answer to all of the questions may not guarantee a top of the line home and it is possible to have a quality insulation job without a “yes” to the above questions, but they are a good start and insulation is a one of the first corners a builder will cut with trying to save costs.

Some of the ideas are very creative, many are not, but all were gladly received. Below is the list:

• “Comfortable, like an all day hug”
• “Air-Tite’s shit’s tight”
• “We want YOU!!….Avoid the draft… choose Air-Tite.
• “We’re better than spooning”
• “We will fill all your gaps with our hoses”
• Air-Tite Heat Right and Stay Cool!
• “For when the snuggie is not an option”
• Closed cell foam just like grandma used to spray.
• Use us when your buns get cold!
• Air-Tite Insulation: “Cutting Utility Company’s Profit Sharing Since 2005″
• “Air-Tite. Where cracks aren’t an option.”

• If needed, additional insulation will earn you the greatest return on investment
• Other weatherization items consideration: Caulking drafty windows and doors / New weather stripping / Draft Stoppers  (at bottom of doors) / Insulated attic scuttles / Air sealing attic & wall penetrations / Plastic windows (if needed) / Storm Door (if practical)
• It is important to make sure you attic space breathes to the outside. Proper attic ventilation does little to change your heating bill but is crucial for helping to prevent and eliminate ice buildup
• Big Box Store employees will not purposefully give you incorrect advice, however they only  deal with insulation / weatherization a couple months a year and make suggestions from corporate down
• Air-Tite only handles insulation / weatherization. Insulation is not just a part of an isle, in the building material department; insulation and energy efficiently is our expertise.  Understanding the best methods, best products and providing a quality service is how we continually grow as a company
• Just because something has an “Energy Star” label on it does not necessarily mean you need it or have to use it

P.S. Sorry that it has been so long between posts!

My immediate thought is “Yes, lots of insulation!”  but most people want more specifics.

So, here are some preliminary “do it yourself” methods for determining if you need our expertise.

- Do you have at least 12″ of insulation in your attic?

- Is your house more than 10 years old?

- Does your house accumulate massive icicles when snow is on the roof?

- Does your furnace run constantly?

- Does your house feel drafty and cold all winter?

- Do you feel you have abnormally high heating bills?

If you answered “yes” to at least one of these questions, give us a call, we can help!

Option 1- Prescriptive Method – Build by the specifications outlined under the Michigan Uniformed Building Code.  This method can be the easiest to follow, because the instructions are laid out for you, but ultimately, will end up being the most expensive.

Option 2- Independent Audit Certification – This one is pretty simple too, have a creditable service, like Energy Star, certify your home and you pass.  The downside is the additional cost and logistics of certification.

Option 3- Performance Based – The method is more labor intensive,  but can be the cheapest.  Is sometimes more confusing than necessary but often best for the home owner. Basically, you, your lumber company, or if you have a quality insulator (like Air-Tite) run a REScheck on your floor plan to see if you pass.  If at first run, your house does not pass (many will pass), you start to change insulation products and levels to see what it takes for your home to pass.

To find out what method is best for you, first pass by REScheck (Again, Air-Tite will do this for you) After you find a winning formula you compare the necessary costs to reach this performance.  If the costs of satisfying REScheck is cheaper than Energy Star (or another energy certification) go with REScheck. If the cost is not cheaper, call an Energy Auditor.

Don’t forget: If you are a builder or homeowner and need help with REScheck in Holland, Muskegon, Grand Haven, Grand Rapids or West Michigan in general contact Air-Tite.

Living in West Michigan insulation is a very important aspect of the home construction and it is often overlooked.  I personally don’t want to cut large checks to DTE, Consumer Energy, MichCom, Lansing Board of Water and Light or any other utility company. I want to keep my energy bills low.

If I only planned on living in the home a few years, the smart answer is sprayed cellulose in the sidewalls and attic. Seeing as I receive an “owner’s discount”, my answer is slightly skewed, but to simplify – based on comfort, air quality, energy consumption, sound and home value, I recommend the following package: (A side note – the following brands that I am listing are all brands that I carry, another reputable brand for the same project will probably do just as well)

- Sidewalls: 3″ Average (2″ Min) – Sprayed 2 LBS, Icynene MD-R-200, Foam

- Rim Joist: 4″ Average (3″ Min) – Sprayed 2 LBS, Icynene MD-R-200, Foam

- Attic: All Drywall Seams, Penetrations, Baffles and Above Top Plates: Sealed with 1″ Min – Sprayed 2 LBS, Icynene MD-R-200, Foam. Also, R-55 Stabilized Applegate Cellulose

- Sound Work: All Pipes wrapped, Subfloors w/ 6″ Unfaced Fiberglass /  3″ Fiberglass Batts around all Bath’s / Laundry /Bedrooms / Office

- Additional Work: All Double Studs on Exterior Walls (including but not limited to: headers, baseboards, top plates, etc) with 30 year caulk

- Side Notes: For sound reasons only, the interior walls around guest powder room, laundry room and master suite would be double framed with a 1/2 gap between the two walls and insulated with sound batts.

Doors and Windows are always a point of controversy when it comes to insulation. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind:

- If you are displeased with the amount of insulation around your window, talk to your framer about leaving more space for us to insulate: 1/4″ – 1/2″ on all sides will ensure proper perimeter insulation.

- If the gap is to small to stuff fiberglass, we cannot foam it and will caulk the face of the gap.

- We buy and use premium Window and Door Foam, it WILL NOT WARP ANY WINDOWS. It is a proven fact – check it out on the website http://www.touch-n-seal.com/nowarpgun.htm. No matter how much foam we put in the gap, it does not expand enough to forcefully warp anything. However, if your window was warped when it was installed, it will fill the warp voids and not allow the window to flex back into space.  – If this happens, talk to the installers about numbers of nails used in nailing fin; does it meet manufacturer recommendations?

- Sometimes my guys miss a window when trimming excess foam. It happens, I’m aware of it and constantly working with them to improve on it. Please be understating and patient with us, it does not happen out of sloth.

Remember: Air-Tite is West Michigan’s premier insulation company and we are constantly working on improvement and growth as both individuals and a company. If you ever have any questions or concerns about how we do something, don’t hesitate to talk to us!

For the consumer – you the homeowner – be warned, FREE ESTIMATES ARE NOT FREE.  In fact, you end up being billed more for a free estimate than if you were charged upfront, because you are paying for time spent estimating jobs that were not accepted by other people.

Let me elaborate:

As a small business owner and chief estimator I know that I’m only going to get a fraction of the jobs that I bid. So, in addition to “time + material + overhead” I have to add “time spent not getting jobs I bid” – which includes drive time, time in your attic, time talking to you, time crunching numbers and time following up to try and schedule the job.

Frankly speaking, per unit, estimator costs are not that much.  So, we’ve started charging for our estimates and it works out really well for all parties involved.  We charge $100.00, payed upon arrival and if you accept our bid, that $100.00 is deducted from the final invoice, like a down payment. If after inspection WE determine that we cannot help you lower your energy costs, we refund the $100.00 immediately.

The most commonly asked question is: “How do we know you don’t just mark the estimate up $100.00?”

Answer: Because if you have a cheaper quote by a reputable competitor, that is apples to apples, we’ll beat it by  5%.

$100.00 Estimate Fee – $100.00 Discount if you use us. Guaranteed lowest price or we beat it by 10%.  Up to 40% Annual savings off you Heating and Cooling Bills!

Air-Tite Insulation is a company that dedicated to treating it’s customers with respect and integrity. We are not here to swindle homeowners out of $100.00 inspection fees. Rather, we are here provide quality insulation, with professional service, at an affordable price – and that’s what we do.

Unlike many parts of the country, residents of West Michigan understand the high cost of both heating and cooling a home. Adding insulation reduces heating bills in the cooler months and cooling bills in the warmer months.

Odds are, if your home is more than 10-years old, you will benefit from additional attic insulation. The older your home the more money you are throwing out the window.  Additional insulation is the only home improvement that will pay for itself in energy savings. Typically, additional insulation will pay for itself in less than 4-years.  Go ahead and ask your banker to guarantee to double your investment in four years – you’ll be laughed out of the office!

No laughing here, we’ll just schedule an appointment. Give us a call 616.308.1719 and ask us how we can start saving you money today!